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Urine Trouble

Cat pee is hard to clean, but removal is essential considering cats prefer going where they can smell they’ve peed before. Here’s how to get it gone for good

By Matthew M. F. Miller
CTW Features

Healthy, litter-box trained cats rarely decide to pee outside of the box unless something is amiss. An unclean box, a covered box that traps the smell or too many cats using the same box can all be reasons. Marking territory is another reason, but is far more predominant in unaltered pets.

Sometimes, however, cats can pee where they aren’t supposed to as a form of acting out – think about the your childhood when you did something you weren’t supposed to just to get your parents' attention. Cats are the same way.

The surest way to make sure your cat goes where it’s supposed to is by doing your job – keep the litter box clean and good smelling, and provide your kitty plenty of love and affection. If your cat does go outside of the box, it’s important to destroy the odor completely. Avoid using ammonia-based products as cat urine has a similar smell. Cats desire to go where they’ve gone before, so you must also use more than soap and water.

Pet products designed to eliminate odors contain enzymes and odor-killing additives that get rid of the smell completely – even the bits that are undetectable to the human nose. When dealing with hardwood or non-carpeted floors, clean it up as you would any other spill. If the incident occurs on carpet, do not scrub, as this will force the smell deeper into the fibers. Blot the affected area with a damp cloth and follow the directions on the pet-odor remover of your choice.

Matthew M. F. Miller, author of “Maybe Baby: An Infertile Love Story” (HCI, 2008), is a syndicated fatherhood blogger

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Ways to Welcome Home a New Feline

From Allie Phillips of King Street Cats, a cat-rescue group in Alexandria, Va., which holds open adoptions at downtown locations every Sunday

Give the cat its own room

A new home can seem huge, intimidating and overwhelming. So find a room that will allow the cat to get accustomed to the smells and sounds. Placing a cat-calming Feliway plug-in device in the room may also help.

Make introductions slowly

If you have other cats or pets, a several-step introduction is best. First, allow your current pets to see the new cat through a baby-gated doorway or by someone holding the new cat while your current pet is held and petted (to reduce anxiety and jealousy.) Cats will invariably growl and hiss during introductions. Keep petting and talking to all pets. Let the pets decide when they want to get closer to sniff each other, which may take days or even weeks.

Kitty-proof your home

If this is your first cat, be sure electrical cords are hidden or secured to avoid chewing; check tables and shelves for breakable items; beware of lit candles on low tables; and be sure basements and other areas don't have small openings to the outdoors. Lock away cleaners, chemicals, fertilizers and other toxins with baby-proof hinges. Have at least one litter box per cat.

Provide supervision

During the first weeks of allowing your new cat to roam free in your house, it's best to be watchful. You can help it locate litter boxes and food/water bowls and you'll discover its hiding places. And if you have other pets, you can ensure there are no conflicts.

Give lots of love

Keep your level of attention for existing pets consistent when a new cat arrives. If you suddenly stop or reduce the level of play and interaction with current pets, jealousy can ensue and the new cat could become the target of attacks. Engage in playtime with all the cats together.