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Beaming With Pride Follow these step-by-step instructions to add some architectural charm to your dreary ceiling.  To the top: Adding faux beams eliminates the need for a full-room makeover, creating architectural interest and design sensibility in a tired space. Image courtesy Dynamic Resource Group Redecorating your home can be both a fun and daunting task, and one that can take weeks, months or maybe even years to complete. It’s also something you can do in between leaving work Friday and going back on Monday. “I think a lot of people have difficulty with a remodel and an entire redesign, and I don’t know if it’s entirely necessary,” says Matt Fox, host with Shari Hiller of HGTV’s Room by Room, the authors of “Great Weekend Projects” (Dynamic Resource Group, 2006). In the book, the duo tackles a variety of plans, ranging from some of their signature projects like a slanted floor design and different types of shelving to accessory projects like table scapes and vignettes. “People, I think, are more willing to try a small project, not a huge money- and huge time-consuming project,” Hiller says. Fox adds that the book is a leaping board for new projects based on the ones in the book. “When I see something I like, I try to take it to the next level,” he says. Whatever your short- or long-term goals are, they advise to keep things simple. Try one project at a time and it will change they way you feel about decorating, they say. For a way to enhance your living room, try their faux beam project: Turn an ordinary ceiling into something extraordinary with the addition of faux beams. This isn’t a project for the faint of heart – it requires some work, skill and, above all, a sense of adventure. The spectacular results will enhance your living spaces for years to come. SHOPPING LIST Pine lumber: 1x4 boards for sides Pine lumber: 1x8 boards for bottom (faces down into room) Decorative edge molding for trim 2x4 lumber 4-inch-long 1/4-inch toggle bolts Interior latex paint MATERIALS ON HAND Compound miter saw Drill with drill bits Carpenter’s square Level (laser level works best) Awl Nail gun and compressor Pencil Paintbrushes PROJECT NOTES This project requires two people to complete – one to lift the beam sections and a second person to attach the sections to the ceiling. Instructions are written for beams that measure approximately 4 inches high and 8 inches wide. Beams can be made narrower or wider depending on the width of lumber chosen. 
STEPS 1. Measure the room and determine the finished size of the beam. Purchase enough lumber to make the desired number of beams. 2. Determine the placement of the beams. Divide the ceiling so that there will be equal distance between the beams. Lay out the location of each beam by using a carpenter’s square placed against the wall to make sure that the beam placement is square, and a laser level to lay out the line, marking the placement of the beam with a pencil. The straighter the line, the better the final results. 3. Cut mounting blocks (Fig. 1) from the 2x4 lumber the inside width of the beam. This is the measurement of the width of the bottom board. You will need at least 4 blocks for every 10 feet of beam. 4. Drill pilot holes into the blocks for the toggle bolts. 5. Mark block placement on the ceiling by pushing an awl through the pilot holes into the ceiling. Blocks should be placed at each end of the beam and evenly spaced along the beam line, perpendicular to the beam lines. Drill pilot holes into the ceiling at the marked locations. Use toggle bolts to attach the mounting blocks. 6. Cut the sidepieces of the beam to length, using the miter saw. For long beams, use several sections for the run of the beam and miter the ends of the sidepieces to create a clean joint. The beams in the photo on the facing page are constructed with two pieces of 1x4 per side. 7. Attach the sidepieces to the blocks using a nail gun. If more than one sidepiece is used, make sure that a mounting block is located where the two sidepieces will be joined. 8. Cut the bottom board to length. Again, more than one piece may be necessary for long beams. If more than one bottom piece is used, miter the ends of the cut where the two will meet to make a smoother joint. 9. Hold the bottom in place and secure to the sidepieces with the nail gun (Fig. 2). 10. Use decorative edge molding along the sidepieces to add finish detail and to cover any gaps between the ceiling and the beam. Cut to length and install with the nail gun (see photo). 11. Paint and finish the beam in the desired color and technique. Project courtesy “Great Weekend Projects” (Dynamic Resource Group, 2006) by Matt Fox and Shari Hiller |
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