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Posted on: September 8, 2011

It’s Easy Eating Green … And Leafy

Turn fall’s cruciferous veggies into dinnertime celebrities

By Bev Bennett
CTW Features

If brussels sprouts, cauliflower, broccoli, kale, turnips and radishes auditioned for the nutrition version of a television talent show, they’d get top scores.

The robust vegetables, which hit supermarkets in the fall, would be headed to stardom as weapons in the fight against cancer.

These members of the cruciferous family contain substances that stop cancer cell growth in test-tube and animal studies. The vegetables are also high in dietary fiber, which reduces your risk of colorectal cancer, according to the American Institute for Cancer Research.

But it takes more than great health benefits to persuade people to vote for brussels sprouts, turnips and their relatives to make it to the next round. And let’s face it, cruciferous vegetables, as beneficial as they are, could use a little dressing up for their star turn.

Savory accessories, including herbs, garlic and onions, and attentive cooking techniques bring these vegetables into the dinner table spotlight, say culinary and nutrition experts.

Roasting, for example, does wonders to bring out the sweet mellow flavor and buttery texture of brussels sprouts and cauliflower.

“I love roasting these vegetables,” says chef Rob Mullooly, associate professor at The Culinary Institute of America, Hyde Park, N.Y.

The winning combination of garlic, rosemary or thyme twigs and olive oil transform brussels sprouts, says the nutrition-savvy instructor (his directions follow).

Braising – long, slow cooking in a little liquid on the stovetop – is also a great match.

“Braise, braise, braise. It’s so awesome. You can do it with chicken stock instead of butter and fat,” Mullooly says (directions follow).

Eric Stein also sings the praises of braises.

He starts a braise by caramelizing onions, adds tomatoes and then sturdy greens, such as kale.

“This is really good for vegetarians; it’s really hardy,” says Stein, registered dietitian and wellness chef.

Curries are another of Stein’s favorite dishes.

“Cauliflower with curry, apples and golden raisins. I love to do that,” says Stein, owner of the nutrition consulting company, Enlightened Flavors, Chicago.

Although the emphasis is on slow, cruciferous vegetables also perform well in quick stir-fries. The technique may also disguise under-appreciated brussels sprouts.

For one meal, Stein decided to substitute thinly shaved brussels sprouts for cabbage in a stir-fry. His dinner companion who wasn’t a sprouts fan loved the dish.

“She had no idea about the sprouts until I told her” wrote Stein in an email.

Roasting cruciferous vegetables

Roasting gives brussels sprouts and cauliflower a sweet nutty taste that takes the vegetables beyond everyday fare. However, don’t reserve this technique for company. Make a large batch and refrigerate leftovers to use in salads.

Here’s how chef Rob Mullooly does it.

Cut brussels sprouts lengthwise in half. Cut cauliflower in bite-size pieces. Toss with a little olive oil, crushed garlic and rosemary or thyme twigs. Place a rack with small slots on a roasting pan. Spoon the vegetable mixture onto the rack. Roast in a preheated 325 degree F oven until tender, about 45 minutes to an hour.

“The rack is good to prevent the vegetables from sticking to the pan,” Mullooly says.

Braising cruciferous vegetables

Braising fills your kitchen with enticing aromas, while the long slow cooking turns even the toughest vegetable tender.

Heat 1 teaspoon olive oil in a large, heavy-bottomed pot. Add 1 smashed garlic clove and 4 or 5 thyme stems (optional). Cook over medium heat 1 minute. Add 2 cups vegetable or chicken broth and bring to a simmer. Remove tough stems from 1 large bunch kale. Rinse kale leaves under cold running water. Pat dry and coarsely chop; you’ll have about 8 cups. Add to broth. Simmer, uncovered 45 minutes to 1 hour, stirring occasionally, or until tender. Broth will mostly evaporate. Remove garlic and thyme. Serve as a vegetable or add to cooked pasta and toss with shredded Parmesan cheese for a main course.

Bev Bennett, a veteran food writer and editor, is the author of "Dinner for Two: A Cookbook for Couples" and "30-Minute Meals for Dummies"