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Posted on: September 8, 2010

Got Non-dairy Milk?

Almonds, rice, hemp and coconuts are just a few of the options in the increasingly popular milk-substitute market. But are they as nutritious as the real deal?

By Bev Bennett
CTW Features

They're cream-colored, thirst-quenching and varyingly nutritious. Their roots aren't in a dairy farm, however.

Instead, newly booming nondairy beverages like soy, hemp, rice, almond, oat and coconut originate in plants.

For those with an allergy or intolerance to dairy milk or those following a vegan diet, plant beverages likely are commonplace.

For those under the age of 45 looking to improve their diets, these are healthier options than milk, according to a recent market research report from Mintel International Group.

But do plant beverages deliver the nutrients people need?

The short answer: maybe.

"There's a lot of nutrient variation not only between different types, such as soy and hemp, but also within the type," says Matthew Ruscigno, a registered dietitian, Los Angeles.

Since plant beverages don't have uniform formulations, consumers may find that one brand of hemp milk has 140 milligrams of sodium and another brand only 5 milligrams. They'll also find a wide variance in calories, fat and nutrients. In addition, consumers may find that some beverages include added sweeteners.

When selecting plant beverages, take dietary needs into account and read the labels for each brand and each type, nutrition experts say.

Calories, which may be first on the list, can range from 50 to 140 per cup. Hemp can vary by 40 calories per cup, depending on the brand.

Make sure the calories aren't coming from added sweeteners, Ruscigno cautions. He recommends buying plain, not flavored beverages, to reduce or avoid the amount of sweetener in each serving.

For those consuming a milk-like drink for the recommended daily allowance of calcium, don't assume it delivers, and check the label.

"Many [plant beverages] have calcium added that's close to or equal to that in cow's milk, but you have to look. Calcium is not in all of them," says Ruscigno, who's been a vegan since age 15.

Like calcium, vitamin D fortification can vary. Major soy beverage producers are adding vitamin D to make it comparable to dairy milk, he says.

Check for vitamin B12, which is in cow's milk, says Keri M. Gans, a registered dietitian and spokeswoman for the American Dietetic Association.

Some manufacturers add B12 to their plant beverages; others don't.

If dairy milk is a major protein source, especially in the morning, consumers are not going to get the same amount with an alternative, according to Gans.

Soy beverages come closest at 7 grams of protein per cup, compared with 8.26 grams protein for skim milk.

However, in some nutrient comparisons, such as dietary fiber, plant beverages may do better than dairy milk, which doesn't contain fiber.

Whole-grain rice beverages provide three grams of dietary fiber per cup - more than a slice of whole-wheat bread.

Oat beverage, like oats, is a source of soluble fiber, which may help reduce the risk of heart disease. Adding oat beverage to morning oatmeal can significantly boost soluble fiber intake.

Although omega-3 fatty acids are hemp's claim to nutritional fame, Gans cautions that hemp isn't the optimal source of the fatty acids.

As plants, these beverages are good sources of carbohydrates. But for those at risk for diabetes, it might be crucial to get the product lowest in carbohydrates, according to Gans, who is in a private practice in New York City.

With such great variance in benefits, it's tempting to stick with the beverage type with the best nutrition package. Instead, mix it up to get the best of plant beverages, the experts say.

Dairy-free Cooking

Plant beverages are suitable for cooking and for drinking.

Unlike milk, which has a uniform flavor, different beverages will add subtle or significant taste variations, which can make dishes more interesting, according to Alicia C. Simpson, an Atlanta-based cookbook author and food writer.

What does she use in her recipes?

"Everything that's out there," says Simpson, author of "Quick and Easy Vegan Celebrations" (The Experiment, 2010).

Her current favorite for cooking is almond beverage.

"It's great because it's only 60 calories [per cup] super creamy, rich and not too sweet," Simpson says.

Rice and oat beverages also get a nod in her cooking.

"Rice is a little lower in calories and a little sweeter. I like it in muffins and cakes and a sweeter pancake," Simpson says.

When she wants a beverage with neutral flavor and creamy texture, she turns to oat beverage.

Hemp has thick, creamy texture, but with a distinctive grainy or nutty taste.

"You either like it or you don't, says Matthew Ruscigno, a registered dietitian and co-author of the upcoming healthy vegan cookbook, "Appetite for Reduction."

Coconut beverage, not to be confused with canned coconut milk, tastes like its namesake.

"It bakes really well, but I'll use it in dishes that already have coconut or could use it, such as an oatmeal bread," Simpson says.

Ruscigno recommends coconut beverage - "better than soy" - if you're making ice cream.

Soy and coffee are a popular mix. However, some soy brands are better suited to lighten coffee, according to the dietitian.

"Some soy [brands] break apart and separate; it's not very appealing. Same with hemp; some [brands] break down," says Ruscigno, who suggests asking your coffee shop barista what brand he uses.

But Simpson urges cooks to not limit themselves to one type of beverage.

"The joy of working with various [plant beverages] is having fun experimenting with them," she says.

What's in a Name?

Although some rice, oat, hemp, coconut, soy, almond and other vegetable beverages use the M word on their packaging, there's a debate about how to describe the products.

Milk applies to a dairy beverage, according to a definition from the U.S. Food and Drug Administration.

Products that don't meet the standard of identity are misbranded, says Jamie Jonker, vice president of scientific and regulatory affairs for the National Milk Producers Federation, which recently requested that the government agency enforce its own regulations.

However, the soy industry has argued that soymilk is a qualified term that consumers won't confuse with cow's milk.

The FDA is looking at the issue in terms of its nutrition priorities, according to Jonker.

Nutritional Breakdown

Here's a look at plant beverage nutrition, using the Nutrition Facts panel for each product based on a 1 cup serving. However, remember that actual nutrients can vary with the brand.

Type Calories Fat Sodium Calcium Protein Carbohydrates Fiber

Almond 60 2.5g 150mg 20% 1g 8g 1g

Coconut 50 5g 15mg 10% 1g 1g 0g

Hemp 140 5g 130mg 50% 4g 20g 1g

Oat 130 2.5g 110mg 35% 4g 24g 2g

Soy 100 4g 135mg 35% 7g 8g 2g

Whole-

grain rice 100 3g 150mg 25% 1g 19g 3 g

Bev Bennett, a veteran food writer and editor, is the author of "Dinner for Two: A Cookbook for Couples" and "30-Minute Meals for Dummies"