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Don't Be Egg-centric! Massive recalls force bakers to be careful - and get creative 
For those who have been lax about thoroughly cooking raw eggs, the massive recall and hundreds of reported illnesses due to salmonella-tainted eggs are stunning reminders to be vigilant. But even for those cooks who do follow the guidelines for egg safety (http://www.cdc.gov/Features/SalmonellaEggs/), it's normal to be concerned about a lapse while in the kitchen. One lick of cake batter and a salmonella enteritidis infection could be around the corner. Fortunately, the pleasure of tasting throughout the baking process doesn't have to stop. A wide range of cakes and cookies don't call for eggs, say baking experts. Some recipes, such as shortbread or the frugal World War II cakes, are naturally eggless. Other recipes are designed for people who must avoid eggs and use alternatives in recipes. Eggs provide moistness and structure, bind the ingredients together and help baked goods rise, says Cybele Pascal, a Los Angeles food writer who specializes in recipes for people with food allergies. To keep eggless muffins from crumbling, Pascal uses a mixture of one tablespoon flaxseed meal and three tablespoons hot water. She especially likes golden flaxseed for its neutral flavor. "It provides the same structure as an egg," says Pascal, author of "The Allergen-Free Baker's Handbook" (Celestial Arts, 2009). She also suggests substituting a quarter-cup of unsweetened applesauce for an egg to add moisture to baked goods. Her go-to ingredient to help pancakes and cakes rise is Egg Replacer (from Ener-G Foods, Inc., available in natural food stores and many supermarkets), which is basically a combination of potato starch, tapioca starch/flour and leavening. There's also plenty of eggless baking to be done with the basic ingredients in the cupboard, too. "With a lot of cookies you wouldn't miss the eggs," says Shirley Corriher, an expert at explaining the chemistry of cooking. Gluten, the protein in flour, helps hold cookie batter together as an egg would, says the food scientist. When eliminating an egg, opt for flour with a higher protein content, which can be found by reading the Nutrition Facts panel on the flour package. "It's important to not use cake flour. Try using bread flour," says Corriher, author of "BakeWise" (Scribner, 2008). Cake flour is low in protein, she says. To jumpstart the gluten in flour, dampen the flour. Take a cup of flour for a cookie recipe, sprinkle a scant tablespoon of water over the flour. "It may be a little lumpy [but] the lumps will disappear and provide gluten to hold cookies together," Corriher says. Vinegar is another time-honored trick for egg-free baking, most notable in "crazy cake," which dates back to World War II if not earlier. "Vinegar is there because the acidity makes the protein set batter," says Corriher. Here's her recipe. She suggests serving the cake with vanilla ice cream or whipped cream. Shirley's Crazy Cake 
1 1/2 cups bleached or unbleached all-purpose flour 1 cup sugar 1/3 cup natural cocoa powder (NOT Dutch process) 1 1/2 teaspoon baking powder 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon cider vinegar 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract 1/2 cup vegetable oil 1 cup cold water or weak coffee 1. Arrange a shelf in the lower third of the oven, place a baking stone on it, and preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. 2. In an 8 x 8 x 2-inch nonstick pan, stir together flour, sugar, cocoa powder, baking powder, and salt. Poke 2 small holes and 1 large hole in the ingredients with the handle of a wooden spoon. Spoon the vinegar into one small hole, and the vanilla into the other. Pour oil into the large hole. It is OK if it overflows. Pour the cold water over the top and blend all of the ingredients together until smooth. 3. Place the pan on the baking stone and bake until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out moist, about 30 minutes. Place the pan on a rack to cool. Makes one (8-inch square) cake.
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Bev Bennett, a veteran food writer and editor, is the author of "Dinner for Two: A Cookbook for Couples" and "30-Minute Meals for Dummies"
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