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Posted on: November 13, 2009

A Hair Beyond the Blade

Smooth, hairless skin is in style. Bring on the options

By Anna Sachse
CTW Features

Once upon a time, body hair protected us from germs, provided cushioning for sensitive parts, helped keep us warm on cold winter. But these are the days of barely-there bikinis in the “Sports Illustrated” Swimsuit Edition and baby-smooth chests on the likes of Matthew McConaughey, Daniel Craig and David Beckham.

From top to toes, and everything in between, here’s the latest buzz in hair removal.

Waxing

How it Works: Warm wax is applied to patches of unwanted hair; then a piece of cloth is pressed into the wax and used to rip out numerous hairs in the opposite direction of growth. One of the most popular services, the Brazilian bikini wax, takes about 15 minutes the first time, and then around five minutes for follow-ups once the esthetician understands how your particular hair grows, says Janea Padilha, the woman who introduced the U.S. to the Brazilian method in 1987 and now services stars like Gwyneth Paltrow, Kate Winslet and Fergie at the Manhattan-based J. Sisters International salon. Results last three to four weeks.

Watch Out: According to Rebecca Ambrose, an Austin-based medical esthetician, you should advise your esthetician in advance if you’re using topical retinoids or acne medication, as these products can thin the epidermis and lead to burns or the removal of too much skin along with the wax. Accutane users should wait at least six months after ceasing medication.

Ouch Factor: It hurts quite a bit when the wax is first ripped off, but subsides within 10 to 30 minutes. “And it will start to hurt less and less with repeated treatments,” says Padilha, “as the roots are weakened and the hair grows back thinner.”

Cost: It can range from $10 for eyebrows at a small boutique, up to $85 or more for a Brazilian (or Sunga, the male counterpart) at a fine salon.

Defuzz This: Waxing works on all body areas, but is especially common with the upper lip and legs for women, the chest and back for men, and the eyebrows and genital area for both.

Sugaring

How it Works: Sugaring is similar to waxing, but it uses an all-natural, water-soluble paste made from sugar, lemon and water. An average session takes about 20 to 30 minutes, depending on the body part, says Lisa Dicenso, an Ontario-based executive educator for Alexandria Professional, the leading company that both produces body sugaring products and certifies practitioners. Results last two to six weeks.

Watch Out: It can be difficult to find a salon with experienced practitioners, and it’s hard to get the right consistency when making the mixture at home.

Ouch Factor: Slightly less painful than waxing, as the mixture isn’t hot, it never adheres to live skin cells, and hair is pulled out in the direction of growth, Dicenso says.

Cost: Similar to waxing.

Defuzz This: Sugaring can be used from head to toe, but is most common with eyebrows and the genital region, says Dicenso. It is also safe to use it on hairs that hang below the nostril. (Hairs up inside the nose, as well as inside the ear, should never be removed.)

Threading

How it Works: Originating in India and the Middle East, this depilation technique uses a twisted cotton thread to quickly pull out a line of hair. It is more precise than waxing, but faster than tweezing. Results from a 5 to 10 minute session can last two to four weeks.

Watch Out: This technique is more unusual in the U.S., so to avoid uneven lines, hair breakage, ingrown hairs or unnecessary pain, make sure you use an experienced esthetician.

Ouch Factor: There may be an extremely brief stinging sensation, as well as redness and/or puffiness, but it typically diminishes after multiple treatments.

Cost: Similar to waxing.

Defuzz This: Threading is commonly used on all parts of the face, including upper lip, chin, sideburns, cheeks and especially eyebrows. “It’s ideal for people who wish to avoid putting potentially irritating products like wax on their face,” says Padilha.

Laser Hair Removal

How it Works: A pulsed laser beam removes hair in small patches by targeting the pigment (melanin). Removal works best on dark, coarse hair because it has the most pigment and therefore absorbs the most energy. Light skin is also ideal as it allows the laser to pass right through and concentrate in the hair shaft, destroying the hair without damaging the skin or follicle. However, the procedure “only works on hair that is in an active growth phase, which can be anywhere from 10 to 50 percent of hair at one time, so several treatments spaced six to eight weeks apart are needed for effectiveness,” says Ambrose. Although the FDA has approved laser as a “permanent reduction” method, most experts agree that, due to random factors such as hormonal changes, you can’t expect to eliminate every hair forever.

Watch Out: Avoid tanning and stop any topical retinoids or medications that can cause sensitivity to the sun, a few days prior to treatment. Accutane users should wait at least six months after ceasing medication. Consider consulting with a doctor or dermatologist before treatment to see if you are a good candidate. “Patients that are pregnant, nursing or have certain medical issues such as diabetes, epilepsy or heart conditions are advised not to get treated,” says Ambrose. And because licensing requirements vary from state to state, make sure you thoroughly research facilities and use only experienced technicians, to avoid getting accidentally burned and ending up with permanent scarring.

Ouch Factor: Expect a significant pinching, tingling or burning sensation, akin to repeatedly snapping a rubber band against the skin. If necessary, some technicians will use a topical numbing agent before the treatment, or ice to cool the area.

Cost: The most expensive hair removal method, a single session can run $100 to $800, depending on the size of the targeted body part; however, possible permanency makes it an investment in the long run.

Defuzz This: Upper lip/chin, underarms and bikini are popular with women, while most men request chest or back treatments. Ambrose recommends using other hair removal methods on your eyebrows, since lasers lack enough specific control for this delicate and prominent area.

Electrolysis

How it Works: A hair-thin metal probe is inserted into a hair follicle and zaps the root with either galvanic (direct) or thermolysis (radio frequency) current, or a blend of both. “This process cauterizes the bottom of the hair follicle so that it can no longer attach to its blood supply,” says Brenda Cox, owner of Cox Electrology, Portland, Ore. Clearing an area depends on the type and density of hair, as well as the patient’s sensitivity. In addition, electrolysis usually involves multiple treatments (because new hairs beneath the surface will continue to appear for a few months to a year), but it is the only method approved by the FDA for permanent hair removal.

Watch Out: Not all states require licensing, so make sure you do your research and ask for recommendations from friends. Cox warns that over-treatment or poorly performed electrolysis can lead to scabs, blisters and lasting skin damage like hypo or hyper pigmentation and scarring.

Ouch Factor: Electrolysis treatments definitely sting, but it doesn’t last long and any redness or swelling usually diminishes within a couple hours.

Cost: It typically costs between $40 and $100 per hour. But it’s worth it to pay more for an established professional with a great track record.

Defuzz This: Works well on any and all parts of the body where you want permanent hair removal; however, the cost, length of sessions and need for repeated treatments may make smaller areas like the face more appealing.