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Posted on: November 28, 2008

Slow, Tender, Cheap

To avoid the high cost of tender meats, opt for cheaper cuts and break out the slow cooker

By Bev Bennett
CTW Features

If you choose tender, fast-cooking foods for a quick dinner you may be taxing both your food budget and your waistline.

"The main point about what determines the expensiveness of food is its tenderness; tender foods are more expensive," says Andrew Schloss, Philadelphia, a cooking instructor.

As an example, take beef tenderloin, which you can broil in minutes. It's triple the cost of bottom round steak. And, you're not only paying more, but you're consuming more fat when you select that tender beef cut.

Broiled beef tenderloin (select grade) has 20 grams total fat per 4-ounce serving; the same portion of slow-braised bottom round has less than 8 grams total fat. Dried beans and root vegetables, also stalwarts of an economical and wholesome diet, are time consuming to cook. But you can have it all, delicious and nourishing meals, without becoming a slave to the stove if you use a slow cooker, Schloss says.

"What you don't want in a slow cooker is tender foods; slow cooking overcooks food," he says.

Instead opt for food that doesn't suffer no matter how long your cook it. Less expensive meat cuts such as pork or lamb shoulder or brisket are "dynamite in the slow cooker. The texture becomes velvety. The meat takes on the flavors of whatever ingredients you add," says Schloss, author of "Art of the Slow Cooker" (Chronicle Books, 2008).

Root vegetables, including carrots and sweet potatoes, which are packed with vitamin A, cook to a sweet tender finish in a slow cooker. Barley, a bargain source of heart-healthy soluble fiber, is also a good candidate for slow cooking, says the cookbook author.

If you're not acquainted with slow cookers, here are some tips for the best results:

• Avoid delicate foods. For instance, use boneless, skinless chicken thighs, not chicken breasts.

• Even though it's an extra step, brown meat cuts before adding to the slow cooker.

"Meat needs browning to taste delicious. It also helps the flavors stay distinct," Schloss says.

• Use a minimal amount of liquid.

The author recommends using1/4-cup liquid per portion for a stew recipe and for 1/2-cup liquid per portion for soup.

• Don't be wedded to long cooking times.

Sure a slow cooker is great if you're gone from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m., but you can also assemble a recipe at noon to serve for dinner, according to Schloss.

Except for beans, most ingredients are done in about four hours, according to the author's experiments.

• Enjoy the results.

"The main thing is that it [slow cooker food] tastes good," Schloss says.

Here is a recipe adapted from the book, "Art of the Slow Cooker" (Chronicle Books, 2008).

Barbecued Beef

3 pounds beef chuck pot roast, select grade, trimmed of fat

2 tablespoons Southwest-style spice rub

1 tablespoon canola oil

1 cup barbecue sauce (favorite brand)

Season the beef with spice rub. Heat the oil in a large skillet over high heat. Brown the beef on both sides, about 5 minutes per side. Transfer to a 5- to 6-quart slow cooker. Pour on the barbecue sauce and turn to coat.

Cover the slow cooker and cook at low setting for 6 to 10 hours or until the beef is easily pierced with a fork. Remove the beef to a cutting board and let rest 10 minutes. Skim the fat off the juices in the slow cooker. Slice the beef across the grain and serve with the juices. Makes 8 servings.

Bev Bennett, a veteran food writer and editor, is the author of "Dinner for Two: A Cookbook for Couples" and "30-Minute Meals for Dummies"